Glemseck – thinking aloud

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Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 137 total)
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  • #13808
    Mikeonabike
    Participant

    My Supercharged MR2 of 17 years

    #13726
    beachcomber
    Participant

    “INJECTION IS NEAT – BUT I’D RATHER BE BLOWN” !!!!

    #13809
    Mikeonabike
    Participant

    The MR2 is Supercharged!! Standard fitment in Japan on the MK1s, MK2s had Turbo.
    It had among other things an “air conditioning” style electro magnetic clutch which was controlled by the ecu, Unless there was vacuum in the inlet manifold the S/C was switched off, as soon as vacuum started to fall the S/C was switched on and up to pressure before zero vacuum was reached making a seamless transition between N/A and S/C.
    I fitted an inline switch so I could override the ecu saving fuel for the trackdays, 6mpg on full 14psi boost.
    The Supercharged model had strengthening ribs fitted inside the block and also oil squirters for the underside of the forged pistons which as you will know are stronger than cast but do not like to be hot as they distort badly with heat,
    Also had intercooler and knock sensor ABV Air Bypass Valve for when the S/C was not boosting and a pressure valve to stop over boosting, This was easily disconnected by changing two rubber pipes around, this was only needed when the crank pully was changed for a larger one!! 1600cc maxed out at 200bhp but as you will know bhp is not what drives you forward TOURQUE is and it had masses from 1500 rpm.
    I started to Supercharge a small 175 Honda a few years ago but never got the project finished as I changed to road racing where they are not allowed, I still have all the parts so one day it might get done,
    Running Methanol like drag bikes is an easy way of doing it, no heat problems, compression problems or fueling problems but a bit thirsty for the road and not many garages selling it LOL
    Good luck with yours, finding the room is the biggest problem on a bike.
    Mike J

    #13687
    Kaptainkwak
    Keymaster

    My god this site is coming alive. We have great knowledge to share. Thank you Mikeonabike.


    @Beachcomber
    .
    Most people I know and deal with are a PITA but that is life! Lol

    From the top of the head horizontally to the frame is 145mm

    I have amended this as it read 245mm.

    #13727
    beachcomber
    Participant

    MOAB – yes I got the blown bit – that catch phrase was a bumper sticker that was around in the ’80’s that those of us of the blower brigade used!

    In the ’60’s I was part sponsored by Allan Allard [ Shorrock superchargers ] after I whupped his Anglia Drag Car [ 2 litre blown / methanol ] with my 1300 [Blown / petrol ] Renault Gordini!

    That was after 4 years or so of running the same car on the road with the blower. I later built a specific drag car around a Dauphine Gordini – 1300cc blown / injected / methanol.

    Other “toys” included an 1800 bhp blown/ injected/ methanol Comp Altered drag car. So you could say blowers are in my DNA.

    I’m out of my comfort zone with electronics, turbos, FI, etc. Hence the suck through [ SU carb ] blower arrangement for the KZ.

    I will have to rely on mates for a lot of the fab / machining as I have neither the facilities [ or skill ]to do justice to the project.

    #13810
    Mikeonabike
    Participant

    I think you are well qualified for the task in hand, Do you have a time scale on this?

    #13728
    beachcomber
    Participant

    Still learning !

    Nearly all my experience has been with car engines 4cyl and ( mostly ) V8. Just 2 blown Triumph drag bikes.

    All with crude (relatively) fuel injection or carbs. All have been suck through.

    Time scale ????? At 3 score and 12, it has to be sooner rather than later !

    Having been involved with the design, development and manufacture of replica and speciality cars for most of my life, I now temper enthusiasm with realism !

    I rely on my pension and odd ebay sales to fund my hobby / projects and an even greater degree to bartering and the help of good friends.

    It’s underway at least – from a late night “what if” telephone conversation 2 weeks ago I now have the blower,and a line on a rolling chassis / engine. I have quite a few of the related parts needed in my “stash” – race seat, clip ons, rear sets, SU carb, various gauges etc.,etc.

    Realistically I’d like to aim for the latter part ofnext year – Glemseck would be good ! ( hence the title )

    #13701
    Michael
    Participant

    Regarding the thread of the oil pressure switch I have found this:
    http://www.ralstoninst.com/news/story/the-difference-between-npt-bspp-and-bspt-seals/

    Very important is to understand, that this thread is conic. If it is tightend to strong, it may break the engine case !

    Use some Loctite and tighten it just a bit.

    Cheers, Michael

    #13729
    beachcomber
    Participant

    Thanx for the info Michael – duly noted.

    #13730
    beachcomber
    Participant

    Thanx for the info Michael – duly noted.

    #13688
    Kaptainkwak
    Keymaster

    My fat fingers have caught me out. The last dimension I sent you should have been 145 and NOT 245.

    I have amended the other post.

    #13731
    beachcomber
    Participant

    Thanx for that KK. I’ll check clearances against the blower this week.

    #13732
    beachcomber
    Participant

    Looks like the blower will have to be rotated 180 degrees. That will place the outlet at the rear. Works OK as it can feed direct into an intercooler situated where the airbox normally lives, then a connector pipe over the top into a cylindrical inlet log. That allows more packaging space and will form a restrictor plenum to help with boost.

    Question ????? The 2 outlets inside the breather can ….. does the oil / mist that collects in their return into the crankcase ?

    If so, I plan to junk the breather can and run the two pipes into a remote breather. That gives me more space to play with for the blower.

    #13702
    Michael
    Participant

    Hi Beachcomber,

    I would answer that with “Yes”.

    That seems to be the target when Kawa decided to use that “bell” shaped collector.

    I never came accross a filled “bell”. Everytime I remove one, it is more or less clean and dry inside, so there must be a drain opening.

    For sure it is possible to route the pipes into an external breather.
    A cover, where the bell sits, should be mounted. Otherwise the drain opening may spill out oil and dirt and water will enter the engine.

    PS: I’ve never investigated how this stuff works in detail 😉

    Cheers, Michael

    #13733
    beachcomber
    Participant

    That’s the info I was hoping for Michael !

    Yes – blank off + two threaded pipes ( or simply clamped ) off to a remote collector

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