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Now I can move on and find the max bore size 😉
A recommendation I have received is that the cylinder sleeve needs a min thickness of 2 mm. That would allow to use an oversize piston but only 0,25mm over, to leave the sleeve with 1,75 mm finally!Pistons are individually made and the cost per piston (incl. rings, bolt, clips) are approx 300,- to 350,- Euros each !
Still working on the “EX-cam used as IN-cam” thing. Will try it but it may be optimised instead of just using stock components (e.g. adjustable camshaft sprocket)
Will keep you updated.
If anyone is interested in participating in this big bore modification plaese let me know. The needed parts and work is cheaper if more than one kit is manufactured.
Cheers, Michael
Hi guys,
after some knowledge exchange in the german Caferacer-Forum I have done an experiment with an old cylinder bank.
I was told that the cylinder sleeves don’t need a powerful hydraulic press to be removed! The stuff just needs to be heated up to approx 150 to 200°C and the sleeves will come loose and can be removed!
Well, went to my garage and heated up the “oven” in there, placed the cylinder on top and let it sit there for a 1/2 or 1 hour. Then ticked the cylinder block with a small plastic hammer and one sleeve went out a little bit. After some more attempts I managed to remove the sleeves from the cylinder itself !
Finally I have placed the “empty” cylinder block on my scanner, scanned it and made a drawing with most important measurements. It is a mixed description with full text in german and major parts in english as well.
It is done as a PDF, converted to a JPG to post it here.Cheers, Michael
BTW:
If you plan to paint your cylinder with high quality, high temp color that needs to be “burned in” in an oven at 160 to 200°C, be aware that this may lead to loose sleeves while stuff is hot!At least don’t place the “complete” cylinder standing on the sleeves.
Laying it “sideways” to the exhaust side might be the best option to avoid moving of the sleeves.Cheers, Michael
Bottom end of cylinder without sleeves:
There is one large, but thin O-Ring in a groove in the bottom end of the cylinder at every sleeve.
Does anyone know what that is for ?
Can it be left away or is there any other solution to seal the lower end of the sleeve to the bottom end of the cylinder ?If this O-Ring is absolutely necessary, that and the needed groove may become the restricting part of all that stuff 🙁
Currently I am looking for a sleeve with a ring at the upper end.
Ring should have only 1 mm of extention to the outside and another 2 mm of sleeve wall thickness will lead to 87mm bore.
Displacement will be:
r² x pi x h x 2 = 927 cm³It may be easier from the mechanical point of view and to avoid minimal thickness of cylinder block components to go for a 86mm bore, which will provide 906 cm³, which is still starting with “ninehundred” !
Cheers, Michael
… to be continued 😉
My dear uncle Hubertus visited me for the last two days.
We had so much fun !!!He picked up a fully dismantled engine that I have bought about 800 km away from my home. It was about additional 120 km (single way) away from his home.
Engine was separated in boxes and one of them locks like a treasure chest:Cheers, Michael
This is a fantastic thread. The details are amazing and I can now see what is required. Thank You and keep it coming.
Cheers
KK
As there is a kind of holiday season over here in Bavaria, no one is working before 7th. Jan. 2015.
So no progress with sand blasting of the engine parts or any help in finding the matching sleeves.In the meanwhile I have done the “EX to IN” camshaft conversion.
Picked a slightly damaged EX camshaft, cut off the tachometer sprocket and made a test mounting in the IN cam position.
Fits perfect !Cheers, Michael
I am pushing the economy and spent a lot of money today.
I have ordered several spare parts for several bikes. 300,- Euros.
I have ordered a “sand blast station” with sand and “glass pearls”. 215,- Euros incl. freight.
http://www.ebay.de/itm/351150298560?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITWas in a DIY-shop and bought a Dremel 4000, plus some additional tools for it. Still not enough stuff. Some rattle cans of color (filler, white, beige and grey metallic) some “greasy” products and two high end H4-bulbs to improve visibility of Maria’s and my bike. 200,- Euros.
That means that my budget for this month is used up by 5th. January already.
As we say:
It is too bad, that, when the money is spent, there is so much of a month left !
[german: Am Ende des Geldes ist noch so viel Monat übrig]
Well, it is just money 😉Real bike life is here:
Cheers, Michael
I have got some more tools for my Dremel 4000, so I can move on with porting. (No pics yet).
In the meantime I have installed more lamps, gave the compressor a service, installed the new sand blaster and made the first test with the old black painted cylinder block where I have removed the liners before.
Not perfect and not finished yet, but I am satisfied, doing it the first time.
It is done with the “rough kind of sand” we call Korund (180-250). It took some time, the “gun” with the two tubes attached to it is kind of hard to handle and there is very fine dust escaping from the cabinet into the room air.There is still the risk of getting sand into the engine !
One pic shows the cam chain tensioner area from the inside. It was not cleaned perfectly prior to sand blasting and you can see a lot of sand settled on the oil residue left inside.
Well, I will not mount it in that condition !Yesterday Nils and me picked up a used lathe and placed it on the old work bench in the garage. It’s weight is 115 kg and it is hard to handle. My other son helped us to finalise that job.
We have checked and cleaned the lathe a bit and played around. The user manual was included and I have some stuff to read and to understand 😉Cheers, Michael
That is looking really good Michael. Are you going to coat them when you have finished?
Your going to have a great workshop there. I am kind of jealous 👿
Hi KK,
to make you jealous was my intention !
No, just joking and I am really proud of this space, the maschines and the opportunities with them 😉
I will move on with same (coarse) sand to get this test object perfectly clean and then will swap the sand with glass beads.
Will give it a blast with glass beads to see how that comes out. Maybe it stays that way. That would be a repeatable procedure.In the current condition it needs to be painted as the surface is in a raw condition and can’t stay that way to be good looking over years.
Cheers, Michael
Hi Andy,
would you please check this for me ?
Maybe you can find a link to the colors they offer ?VHT colors are a kind of illegal in Germany and hard to buy here.
I have heard only good things about the quality of their colors.
Need them in rattle cans, don’t want to start “professional” paint jobs, too.ThanX, Michael
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