13th January 2019 at 7:43 pm #24589
After last year overall, i started the bike after a couple of month in the garage. To my surprise it did not run as when I left it the year before the season. In the beginning it only misfired now and then. After running approx 50km that summer i gave up and left it in the garage. The only thing i changed before I started it that summer was the spark plugs (to BP6ES ans the manual state).
So I started my troubleshooting and a week ago I started with changing the coil cables and spark plug caps (NGK 5kohm) in hope of it would solved the problem. Tried and still misfire in low rpm and not able to increase the rpm without the choke. However, when running the choke fully and partly out it does not misfire and I can rev without any problems with the only backside the idle is VERY high. Back in the garage and my next thought was that the problems must be in the carburetors. Tared it a part as shown in the picture, but then I am out of ideas. What should I check? My plan is to ultrasonic wash the parts but I can’t find any obvious problems for why it run as it did. Do anyone have any ideas? The diaphragms looks strange but no holes or similar in them. Some dirt around a few parts but still see all jets are not clogged. How sensitive can it be?
To summarize and to give you guys info that may help with ideas what can be wrong;
The bike was running as it should when I left it before the winter. The only thing I changed during the first winter was the spark plugs.
- Running new plugs BP6ES and caps NGK 5ohm)
- Fuel is new
- Petcock is overhauled with new seals and membrane.
Any ideas what can be the issue? I do not think its the petcock since it runs OK with choke? Can bad diaphragm do this effect? What parts in the carburetor can cause this issue?
All help VERY much appreciated since my patience for the bike start jingling, which is sad since I doubt there’s not many bike left in this outstanding shape. I spent a lot of money to restore in to original condition.
David14th January 2019 at 11:50 am #24593
Do not despare. I am sure we can help. My first thought is the fuel ‘varnishing’ with being stood over winter. Ultrasonic cleaning would solve that problem. The issue is definately fuel starvation on the pilot jets. This could be for several reasons with varnishing being one. Assuming the pilot jets are good and the right size the 2nd most likely reason is an air leak. Have you checked the air box to carb and carb to head rubbers are in good order and clamped properly? If they are perished they need to be replaced as they can leak air. If they are over tightened on the clamps they can become oval and not form a seal.
One way to check the carb to head rubbers is to start the engine. Turn the tickover screw up so it will run without choke. Lift the carbs and push forward. If there is a leak there this should close it and the revs will increase.
It is also worth making sure the pipes from the carbs to operate the fuel vacuum tap are in good order and well sealed.
I hope the above gives you new things to investigate.
Letus know how you get on.
14th January 2019 at 12:08 pm #2459814th January 2019 at 12:13 pm #24599
- This reply was modified 1 week ago by kaptainkwak.
Correction, how should the screws bet set to start with it?
Sorry for the bad spelling 🙂14th January 2019 at 1:00 pm #24600
There is no need to apologise for any spelling.
The screw indicated is the fuel mixture screw and NOT for setting the idle speed. It determines the mixture of fuel and air that comes out if the carbs. Idle speed is set by adjusting the bigger wheel screw position underneath the carbs towards the back.
To adjust the mixture each carb will need to be set seperately. If memory serves me well it should be between 1 3/4 and 2 1/4 turns out. Screw it down fully then back it out 1 3/4 turns. Do this on both carbs. I then use a colortune spark plug and start the engine. This lets you see the colour of the burning fuel. Adjust the screw until it is a nice blue colour. Repeat this on the other carb and the mixtures will be correct. After this task has been performed the carbs will need to be rebalanced.
If you do not have a colortune plug adjust the screw until you get the fastests smooth tickover. Back it off slightly and bring it back to smooth. Again repeat on the 2nd carb. This may require further tweaks to get it spot on.
14th January 2019 at 7:59 pm #24603
- This reply was modified 1 week ago by kaptainkwak.
Thanks a lot Kaptain! This gives me new things to check. I noticed however that one of the rubbers between the carburetor and air box was rock solid and not very tight against the air box. I put them in some brake fluid in hope of getting them softer. I still can’t see its SO sensitive but I may be wrong. My experience is only 2 stroke engines and snowmobiles so can’t really say anything about these four strokes 🙂
I plan to change out the diaphragm just to ensure they are in good order, did anyone try the JBM ones? Looks like the only alternatives if not pay huge amount of money.
Do you know a place where I can buy the new rubber boots for the intake and air box to carb?
/David16th January 2019 at 2:51 pm #24610
Kaptain, any chance that you had time to look at my last reply? 🙂17th January 2019 at 11:08 pm #24611
I believe the JBM diaphrams work well but I have not tried them myself. There was one of the German members who was making carb rubbers for the 34mm carbs. I will make enquiries and get back to you.
One other way of sorting the airbox to carb rubbers is to use universal car steering rack gaiters and cut them down to suit.19th January 2019 at 11:52 pm #24614
Thanks a lot, I will wait and see if if there’s a german solution to my diaphrams 🙂
Let me know!
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