Home › Forums › All Things 750 Twin › Technical Garage › How To Fix It › Battery?/Charging Problem? › Re: Re: Battery?
Hi Tango,
that is not good !
I could see from their website, that Motobatt is only offering yellow “Absorbed Glass Mat” batteries, known as AGM or also as VRLA (valve regulated lead acid) batteries.
I am working on a professional basis with huge numbers of these kind of batteries and they are quite reliable.
Largest installation I have supported so far was 32 tons of batteries only + additional stuff to make up a UPS (Uninterruptable Power Supply) for a datacenter 😉
Either your charging system (in the bike) doesn’t work or there is something that deplets the battery or the battery itself is faulty => warranty ?
Are you using an “old” standard battery charger or an advanced one, that is capable to charge this kind of batteries ?
Battery recharge current should be 1,4 A (one tenth of capacity, which I expect to be at 14 Ah = stock) or less. It will take 10 h or more to recharge the battery.
These batteries are made up of 6 cells, each cell has a constant load voltage of 2.27 V. Times 6 this should be 13,6 Volts right after charging, disconnected from charger.
After 3 to 6 month of storage they should show approx 12,0V with no load applied.
Never open the plugs of this kind of battery !
There is no acid level to control or purified water to refill.
If the battery plugs are removed at any time, the battery is destroyed !
Ok, check charging system(s) first.
When battery is fitted in your bike, you should see a raise from 12V nominal to approx 13,6 V when motor is running with approx 1.500 rpms.
It may go up to 14,5 V at higher rpms but should always be lower than 16,0 V, which is bad enough !
Short version of that story:
If you can’t see any raise of battery voltage at any rpms (up to 5.000 rpm) the charging system needs to be checked.
If battery voltage goes up and down within mentioned range and changes with rpms, it can be treated as working fine 🙂
Ah, of course the low voltage of the battery causes the starter not to turn. Measuring the battery voltage, when pushing the starter button, it will go down, of course.
It should be 6x 1,65V per cell, which means 9,9 V total hopefully.
But your actual battery voltage should be sufficient to get the starter relais / solenoid activated and to hear at least a “click” from it. Next try should have at least a “click” as a result, even if starter motor doesn’t spin.
Let me know the result of your investigations 😉
Cheers, Michael
