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TBH it’s probably not worth trying. Being a lazy sod I looked at mine several times with a view to in situ carb work. It took less than 20 minutes to get them off when I actually got round to doing it.
With the carbs off you can set them up with plenty of room to work around them, clean and repair if necessary.HTH
DougWell, I had to ask. 🙂
Just as another test. I closed off the float barrel with a rubber plug. Did not weep a drop overnight. So, it’s not the oring. Guess they’re coming off. {sigh} 🙁
But first… ONE MORE RIDE! 😛 😛
Just thought I’d post a little update. I was able to get the float valve seat out without taking the carbs off. I cut a stick to length so I could support them and wedge it between the gearbox and the carb crossmember. That was just so I could pull down on the valve without stressing the carb holders. Then I grabbed the valve with a pair of needle nose and twisted while pulling down. Popped that baby out. What’s cool is while researching I found the Yammie 650’s have BS34’s too. But the sweet part is they use a Viton tipped needle. I replaced the valve with a new set from the local Yamaha dealer and all is well. No more leakage and less than an hour in the garage. Never missed a beat on the road. Just something to keep in mind if any other 750’s have the same problem. 🙂
Hello Mates. I’ve got an 83 KZ750-K1 that keeps letting gas seep through one carb and into the airbox. I tweeked the float tang about 1mm and that slowed it down but didn’t stop it and I’m concerned about going more because using the tube check shows I’m now at the low end of the range. So, I’m thinking the oring above the float valve is shot. I want to pull it out, check and replace if necessary but I want to do it without dropping the carbs. Anyone tried this? I’m wondering if I can get it pushed back in without #OOPS#ing it and I don’t want to down the bike at this time of year. Any other suggestions? TIA.
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