4th May 2020 at 12:15 am #25556
Hi all. I’m Ben from Leicester. I recently purchased a 750 twin from a guy in Loughborough who advised me of this site. The bike itself had been standing in his back garden since 2012 I believe, so I was expecting a big lockdown project but so far she has been fantastic and isn’t putting up a fight lol.4th May 2020 at 12:37 am #255584th May 2020 at 1:37 am #25559
Hello Furiousjammin and welcome from sunny Bolton.
She is screaming 1980 ‘G’ model to me. Looks very original apart from the missing side panel and the paint job. I am though very curious as to how you managed to get that soap bubble effect?
One thing you will find with these bikes is that generally they are pretty robust. The main issue they have is with the electric start as the starter clutch is a bit weak. Carbs can be sensitive but due to Kawasaki engineering and the simplicity of design they are usually pretty reliable.
I hope you enjoy her as much as I do with mine.
Enjoy the site
KK4th May 2020 at 9:47 am #25560
Looks very promising Ben! You might want to fit a screen to stop yourself being blown off at more than 50 mph with those US market handlebars though!4th May 2020 at 10:55 am #25561
Hi KK. Thanks for the info on G model, she is a 1980 V plate.
The seller gave me a newly covered flat seat as well, and 2 sets of the side panels. I’ll add photos later when I go in the garage.
There is a scratch on the tank paint, showing blue paint underneath which ties against the logbook. Will have to find a picture now of a 1980 g model in blue so I can work out how to get it back how it should be.
So far I’ve freed off stuck rear brake, freed off stuck clutch, emptied old fuel, new battery, checked all electrics and replaced bulbs, fitted new front brake lever and master cylinder as the rubber seal on the old one was completely perished. She now runs (on one cylinder when on the side stand). I’ve ordered 2 service kits for the carbs so can replace all that and stick it in the ultrasonic cleaner to sort that issue out. My shopping list is growing by the day lol.
Rubber strap for fuel tank
Side panel badges (Once I know the correct period ones)
New seat lock
Need a new front indicator as someone has butchered one by sticking the bulb holder from a rear light in so it onlu takes a twin filament brake bulb.
Plus other bits. These aren’t the easiest bikes to find bits for I’m finding! Lol4th May 2020 at 10:56 am #25562
The US bars are high but I’m liking the seating position. Haven’t ridden yet but I’m expecting big things from her4th May 2020 at 5:09 pm #25564
This is what your bike will have looked like originally
It was only made in Candy Red so if the logbook says Blue it has had a colour change.
The handlebars look original to me, that’s how the American styling was in those days. Obviously you can change them if you wish but you will probably need to change the clutch cable and both throttle cables.
I can help you out with used side panel badges.
It is an American import. In America it was/is standard to have the front indicators on all the time. The twin filament bulb is actually correct for this purpose as when indicating the brighter filament flashed on and off. As you know this isn’t a requirement in the UK and it is simply a case of disconnecting a wire in the headlight if you don’t want it. I can also probably help with a used indicator if you still need one.
I may also be able to help with a seat lock. What is your key number?
KK4th May 2020 at 5:27 pm #25566
I’m sure the handlebars are the originals, I wouldn’t change them. Just saying though if you do want to go anywhere reasonably quickly you’ll need something to keep the wind blast off you. That’s true of the standard UK bike with the lower handlebars as well, speeds above 80 give you a stiff neck!5th May 2020 at 3:52 pm #255715th May 2020 at 4:03 pm #25574
Thank you so much for the info. I thought someone had changed the indicator bulb holder. I never new the yanks had twin filament front indicators, so yet something else I’ve learned from here.
If you let me know how much you want for the side panel badges please 👍
I’m not what the deal is with the key. I only have one key, and it fits both the tank and the ignition. The seat lock has got no front so I can undo it with a screwdriver by just levering the mechanism open. The key itself has the logo melted off each side. I’m wondering if it’s a Honda ignition and key. Am I missing a plastic piece of trim from. Around the ignition barrel and indicators do you know?
Thank you so much, this knowledge is very welcome.
I’ve got a 1982 hard tail kawasaki z400 chop, 2 x 1997 kawasaki zzr600, a 1967 (I think) bsa bantam d5 (I think lol) in bits, and a Royal Enfield Bullet 350 in trials trim. I know my way around bikes, so much to say that I fix, maintain and upgrade but I’m by no means an expert. The z750 is the hardest bike I’ve had to find info about so this website is an absolute goldmine of knowledge.5th May 2020 at 4:05 pm #25575
I definitely want to keep it/take it back to original and I love the styling of the bars. I’m used to going everywhere at 50 on the Enfield so I won’t be in a hurry lol5th May 2020 at 11:25 pm #25577
I’ve taken a closer look at the bars and now don’t think they are original. The original ones are higher and more swept back. I’ve changed mine on the CSR from that style as I found elbows banged on your side when turning. The bars fitted look more Z900 style to me but better for riding in my opinion.
The cream side panel is the correct panel for the G model. Have you got a pair of the G panels?
I will get a couple of side panel badges and send you a PM.
Re the ignition switch i’m not sure what that is from but it definitely isn’t the original Kawasaki one. It could well be aftermarket replica or maybe even one that has been reconfigured to suit. If the petrol cap is original you should find that any key that goes in will open it. Not exactly secure I know but aftermarket ones are key specific. There should be a cover over the lights same as the B models. I will more than likely have one of those too.
It’s a shame about the seat lock as I have a full set of keys for the twins and could have had you one cut which would more than likely be the same key for the steering lock. It’s quite common to see this though as people lose the keys and don’t think they can get another.
KK30th June 2020 at 10:15 pm #25707
Hello again all. Hope everyone is well and ready for lockdown to end!
So as an update, brakes are sorted, electrics at the headlight end all working (now I know the twin filament bulbs are supposed to be there lol). New oil filter and oil. Why oil do you guys use for yours? I’ve just out some 10w40 in as a wash through for a few miles (when it hits the road) before replacing with proper stuff.
Mirrors ordered and fitted. Last week’s job was removing carbs, stripping and putting through the ultrasonic cleaner then replacing all jets and seals etc with a service kit. All done and dusted and perfect.
The carb service fixed my “running on 1 cylinder issue” , but now it is running on both cylinders, but the left one sounds like it’s giving a “puffing” noise, like a steam train sound as you put the engine under load/revving. I’ve also noticed a bit of oil around the exhaust manifold on both cylinders. Does this mean valve seals or could it be something else? How difficult are the seals to get and replace? I’m no engine specialist but I’ll give most things a go.
I could post a video if that would help anyone to diagnose my issue. Any ideas greatly appreciated as I just want to get this old. Girl back on the road where she should be.
Ben30th June 2020 at 10:39 pm #25709
If the exhaust system isn’t blowing anywhere, “chuffing”noises I’ve experienced have been associated with blown head gaskets, although that’s been on old English bikes! Having said that, oil where you describe It could come from there. It sounds as if either way you need to get the head off, Kaptain Kwak might know better though?
Colin.30th June 2020 at 11:40 pm #25710
I would agree with Coleighf. The head gaskets are one of this bikes weak points. Even Kawasaki acknowledged this as in addition to the 8 head bolts they added 3 extra bolts underneath around the can chain chamber to try and keep things tight and leak free. As Coleighf says you will need to remove the head and replace the head gasket. That is a comparatively straight forward job. Its when the barrels need to come off that problems may occur. I can supply head gasket and maybe valve stem seals but will need to check for those.
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