28th October 2014 at 1:38 pm #5728
so today i thought fork seals need doing get it done in a day cant get them apart need fork cylinder tool how did you guys go on and can i make some thing that will do the job i have had a look on forum but cant find any posts on the topic but that might be me so any help is more than welcome
cheers dave28th October 2014 at 3:31 pm #11878
2 things here Dabbler.
1. I would recommend only use genuine Kawasaki seals. These are a bit more expensive but IMHO worth every penny as they are far better quality. They can be bought from Zpower with whom we get a club discount.
2. Yes there is a way to do it. A standard nut fits into the screw inside the fork leg to hold it while I turn the external cap head screw. I simply lock 2 nuts onto a piece of threaded bar bent like a handle at the other end. I can’t remember if it’s an m10 or M12 nut. Think it’s M12 but will check later for you.28th October 2014 at 7:01 pm #11880
cheers KAPTAINKWAK i got one done its a 19mm head bolt i used with 2 nuts locked on neat trick that will remeber that one so to the fluid when it says 185cc fork oil is it the same as 185ml28th October 2014 at 10:38 pm #11879
Again yes. 185cc = 185ml. That is one of the joys of the metric system. I also check the measurement (433mm +/- 2mm) from the top of the stantion to the fluid level) to be sure. Make sure the station is fully extended.29th October 2014 at 8:12 am #11881
Thanks for that mate now i can get them sorted this afternoon22nd March 2021 at 5:14 pm #27517JonParticipant
Kaptain – can you explain the two locked nuts method? i can’t think what you mean?22nd March 2021 at 8:31 pm #27518
No problem Jon.
Get a piece of M12 threaded bar approximately 650mm lg. Bend around 150mm at 90 degrees to form a handle. On the other end fit 2 M12 nuts and lock them together flush with the end of the bar. The 19mm nuts fit inside the inner fork piston head to hold it still while you undo the allen bolt on the bottom. This is only good on the LTD forks. For the B1 and B2 forks I got a think it was 9/16″ socket. I heated it cherry red and forged it over the top of the fork piston head and used a standard 1/2″ ratchet and extensions to hold the head. On B3 and B4 forks it is different again. I believe a square taper of some form is required.
KK23rd March 2021 at 11:14 am #27519JonParticipant
Ah yes i get it now..
When removing my ones i grabbed a long piece of 15mm copper tubed, squeezed it oval and it was just right to hold the top of the piston head.
Now that it’s dis-assemebled im’ thinking i might modify the piston heads to fit into a normal socket by pushing the socket onto the pistons you can see the tight spot and just dremel them away- i can’t see that it’d cause any problems.
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