Doh!!!

Viewing 6 posts - 61 through 66 (of 66 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #13904
    KennyS
    Participant

    Still struggling to get the bike to run. Suspected the start enrichment might not be working. So carbs off again, stripped down and blown through. I looked at a few diagrams of BS34 carbs and none were like mine, they have more varieties than Heinz.
    Some have a plug in the bottom of the pilot jet and some have an air screw in the bellmouth.
    With the bowl off, I blew WD40 through the enrichment tube and it came out of the enrichment port, OK. I then did it to the main jet and it came out of the needle jet, when I blocked off the jet it came out of the right hand air hole in the bellmouth, OK. I blew it into the pilot jet and it came out of the mixture screw hole and the left hand air vent in the bellmouth, OK.
    So not really sure where my problem lies. All the O rings and the bellows on the chokes are in poor condition.

    #13877
    DABBLER
    Participant

    HELLO everyone sorry for jumping in her but you say on the CSR carbs mixture screw can be unblocked these are my carbs is this where its at just thought i would ask before i start digging

    #13852
    Kaptainkwak
    Keymaster

    Hi Dabbler

    Firstly the carbs in that picture are not standard CSR carbs. The CSR was fitted with 34mm Mikuni’s. I don’t know what those carbs are from and I am not familiar with them so unfortunately I can not advise.

    They might be from the ER5 or KLR? which I believe will also fit.

    #13878
    DABBLER
    Participant

    Thanks for the info i will have a search and see if i can find out what they are from

    #13879
    DABBLER
    Participant

    Thanks for the info i will have a search and see if i can find out what they are from

    #13868
    Michael
    Participant

    Hi Kenny,

    the BS34 carbs description sounds good so far.
    One issue may be that the idle srew is set to open the butterfly valves to much.
    Try starting with reduced opening / lower idle speed.

    You had the ignition rotor apart, which was necessary, for sure. But it is possible to mount it back by 180° turned. You still have ignition sparks as normal, but the timing is perfectly wrong! Have a look at that.

    To break off a stud from the clutch base is typically caused when the central nut needs to be opened or closed again, but the wrong tool like a simple metal bar was used to hold the clutch base. A special tool is required to avoid that.

    Good luck !

    Cheers, Michael

Viewing 6 posts - 61 through 66 (of 66 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.

Share this