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The fly wheel may need to be removed for several reasons. A common reason for our twins is to access the starter clutch assembly which is probably the bikes weakest point. This can be done without the use of any special tools.
Once the cover has been removed you need to take out the centre bolt. WARNING This is a left hand thread and thus is removed CLOCKWISE. You can ‘break’ the bond of the bolt by wedging a screwdriver (or similar) into one of the holes in the flywheel outer and jamming it against something to resist it turning. I do it to the floor using blocks of wood to make up the gap.
After the bolt has been removed we then have the task of separating the flywheel from the end of the crankshaft which is normally done using a puller to break it away from the taper mount.
Not everyone has pullers (I don’t) but in this case you do not need one. There is a thread (normal) in the centre of the flywheel. This is the same thread as the rear axle of a B model twin Simply screw in the rear axle (it helps if you have a spare one) and tight by hand. Give it a firm tap with a hammer and again tighten the axle by hand. Repeat this procedure and the flywheel will be released. It usually takes 2 or 3 goes.
Good tip using the rear axle but I don’t want to pull mine just for that job. I would rather just pick up a spare bolt at the hardware store. Any idea what the thread size is?
Hi AtLarge,
I have ordered some of these screws from the maschinist store and gave them away as a present to good guys.
Have to have a look, if I can find the thread size again 🙂The tip with the rear axle is related to the B-models rear axle only.
It doesn’t work with LTD rear axles as they are smaller !Cheers, Michael
Cheers for that Michael. Michael is right about the rear axle having to be from a B model but also the B axle works on the CSR and LTD models
Hi Tango,
it is not about using the B rear axle for LTDs! It doesn’t match as a rear axle.
It is about using the rear axle of a B model as a special tool to remove the flywheel from the crankshaft of all kind if Kawa Z750Twin motors 😉
Cheers, Michael
Yes Michael
I have been at Andy’s when he has done this, I took down a spare axle.
But I didn’t realise that a B axle would fit on a CSR rear wheel?
This must be a handy mod for CSR owners if that’s the case?
No Tango you missed the point there mate. A ‘B’ axle will NOT fit the rear wheel of a CSR. They have different bearings and swinging arm width. What I am saying is the rear axle of a ‘B’ will fit and remove the rotor of ALL twins
Arr I see! Sorry Michael I misread your post!
Cheers KK I understand now!
That’s why you keep pinching mine, because your older now your knees struggle kicking up the big twins! So you have to keep fixing your starter! 😆
Hi AtLarge,
hi all,Original Kawasaki part number for the rotor puller screw is 57001-1099
The thread size should be 18 x 1.5 mm as far as I have found out. But no guarantee for that, sorry!
Quality should be at least 8.8 or better.
Length of the thread should be -rough estimation- 5 cm or longer.
Puller screw with to short thread can’t be screwed in far enough to press against the crankshaft and will get stuck in the rotor itself without doing the required job.Such a screw should cost below 5 Euros! Do not spend a fortune for it.
Some light trucks from Mercedes Benz use these kind of screws to fix their wheels.
Cheers, Michael
Hi guys,
I have just bought a set of five (5) of the mentioned screws at ebay.
http://www.ebay.de/itm/120926317582?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_689wt_954
5 x DIN 961 8.8 blank M 18 x 1.5 x 50 Sechskantschrauben mit Feingewinde
Cost for all 5 screws incl. shipping within Germany is 12,70 Euros.
Cheers, Michael
Found these over here KK any good?
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