- This topic has 46 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 6 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
Hi Lonesome Twins,
I’ve started building a new Twin called “Lofoti” from parts I have in stock and my garage.
It will be a built-to-purpose to travel to Lofoten, Norway, in June 2016.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LofotenThis touring Twin is based on a LTD Y1 and will be more or less stock except some improvements to give it better touring capabilities.
As the frame I selected the one of the Dirtbike. All the specific Dirtbike stuff removed and packed for re-use.
Frame is in good condition and airbox, battery box and electric components incl. nearly complete wiring harness are already there.
12 hours later, with cleaning, sorting parts, screwing, etc. it looks much more like a bike.
Ok, a rolling touring chassis 😉Baggage carrier is just loose fitted to have a first impression.
In one year this bike has to bring me uuup north and back. Total is approx 8.000 km / 5.000 miles
Will post progress as I achieve some 😉
Cheers, Michael
I’m liking it so far. It makes sense for those miles.
You do like putting yourself under pressure . . .
Love the idea of putting a bike together just for one specific purpose. Looks the part too. Look after it though, you wouldn’t want to get it too wet 😉
Wish I had a drum rear, the disc looks so out of place on these things. It looks out of place on the front too, but that’s a bit more of a challenge.
Hi Lonesome,
a drum brake in the rear of a B-model can be achieved by using the rear wheel and parts of (early) Z650s.
Gunnar has done it before and here are the pics of his bike:
http://www.z750twin.de/gunnar’s_b.htmI will meet him at this years Z750Twin meeting in 3 and a half weeks. May ask him for details of what he has done.
Cheers, Michael
Hi Lonesome Twins,
I have decided to use another Twin for the Norway trip !
It is a BeltDrive K1 model that I have since this summer.
Steering bar and foot pegs already changed back to stock.
Fuel tank andCurrently in my workshop and under conversion to chain drive, which gives the possibility to change the transmission ratio.
Cheers, Michael
PS: The guy on the pic is my uncle Hubertus. He will come with us to Norway on his LTD Y2.
I have done the Belt to chain conversion !
Not finished yet, but it will work.
Have ordered a new chain kit with 17 teeth front, 38 teeth rear (in aluminium) and a gold colored drive chain 106 increments(?)Found that the belt drive swing arm is wider at the bearings (approx 1 cm) and wider at the rear wheel axle (approx 2 cm). Some details of holders etc. are different.
Attached pic shows the K1 swing arm left and Y1 swing arm right hand side.– Swing arm bearings are cleaned and ok
– rear sprocket carrier bearing is ok, but sealing ring is defective and needs replacement
– rear wheel bearings are fineHad to modify (bend) the holder of a belt guide at the lower side of the swing arm away to give way for lower part of the chain.
Chain guard is from a Y1 and cutted at the front end, as the fixing point is different to the belt guard fixing.
Need to adjust the angle of the chain guard and its final position 😉Hi guys,
have received a few spare parts:
My chain kit is on the left hand side of the pic:
high quality ENUMA X-ring chain with gold colored latches and aluminium rear sprocket 38 teeth.
Other kit is for Hubertus and he wants to have a sprocket with 36 teeth.
Both front sprockets are steel and have 17 teeth.In addition I’ve used the special X-mas offer of a steel flex brakeline supplier.
Got that set for 50,30 Euros incl. shipping.Will move on to build the “Lofoti II” 🙂
Cheers, Michael
Good to know there is a workable solution if one wants to do the belt delete. I too have a replacement steel brake line waiting for me to put on. Should make a big difference in feel and power.
Have found a center stand 😉
Worked on the “Lofoti II”:
Need to look after some more spare parts.
Steering bearings, steering lock, fork seals, …One pic shows how I managed to catch the balls from the lower steering bearing 😉
Cheers, Michael
more pics:
You can see that I have ground “openings” into the frame. Reason is the possibility to remove the outer bearing ring of the (Kegelrollenlager) replacement steering bearing set.
New steel flex tubes with black fittings and clear coating mounted. Fixed the new hand brake lever over night and today I have a clear brake pressure point 😉
Oh, missed to post a pic of the ordered spare parts:
e.g. steering bearings, starter clutch repair kit, fork sealing rings, etc.
Of course I have used these parts when working on the bike 😉
Well in true Michael style you are going all the way with this one. That’s a great tip with the bearings. I will do that in future
To grind the openings in the frame I have used this sanding band stuff:
http://www.dremeleurope.com/gb/en/sandingbands-6060-ocs-c/;jsessionid=4A74BF1D0B7DAD9CC52D96BA4534A158.sl172-vm_113 mm, #60 and finally #120
Be aware that these grinders try to run over the surface (some force in rotation direction) and initial positioning is difficult because of that.
You should mark the desired position and try to keep that as good as you can. My openings are approx. 10° or 15° away from it’s desired position left and right, but they are approx. 180° opposite to each other, which will allow to remove the shell from the frame without tilting them.
I have no experience yet if that has any affect to the bike, but expect that there will be none 😉
As the lower bearing shell was loose in the frame by any reason, I’ve glued that in, but I was told that I have used the wrong glue.
Loctite 638 is the right stuff for that purpose and I have to do that again after removing the shell and cleaning the stuff from the other glue.
A small bottle (20 ml) of Loctite 638 costs 10,- Euros over here.
Well, finally it will work and we can go to Norway 😉Cheers, Michael
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
