Jimi5150

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Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
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  • #27900
    Jimi5150
    Participant

    We’re all rooting for you Karl wishing you a full recovery.  Best wishes to you and your family.

    #27817
    Jimi5150
    Participant

    Took it apart, the head looks O.K, the gears are there but all the Thrust washers and O rings are missing, managed to get hold of some replacements.  Main problem looks like it wasn’t tighten up properly.

    #27815
    Jimi5150
    Participant

    Made a bit more progress today, the carbs was leaking fuel out of the right overflow, a tiny adjustment to the float bowl height sorted this.  Once fuel was in the carbs it only took a couple of kicks to start.   Then it was time to look at the electric starter problem.  Dropped oil out and took the side cover off, pressed the starter, I can hear the starter motor spinning fast but the chain doesn’t move, took the chain off and pressed start, I can hear the starter motor spin fast but the starter cog doesn’t move, so its a problem with the starter motor, the starter clutch may be OK after all.

    #27807
    Jimi5150
    Participant

    I can hear it spinning freely.

    #27805
    Jimi5150
    Participant

    Head was taken off with new valves and gasket fitted.   Valve gaps checked and new shims fitted. Time for a compression test, cannot turn the engine over with stater motor even with both plugs out (clutch rebuild kit fitted, but gear needs changing), so have to do it with the kick start.   No down pipes or airbox/filter fitted and kicking it over the bike is definitely squeezing and blowing out a lot more air then before but could not get the compression more then 60, tried again but putting the spark plug back in the other side, this should make it harder to kick over but it did stop my foot slipping off smacking my leg on the chop frame, now got the readings to be 152 & 155.  I was going to try to start it but the carbs are now peeing out fuel out the right drain tap, so carbs will have to come off again to sort this.

    #27603
    Jimi5150
    Participant

    Found a shim not a KZ750 shim which was 200 so used this to get the readings I need as it gave gaps for all the valves.  I would need shims 180-190, the smallest KZ750 twin shim is 220, balls it looks like the head will have to come off.

    #27570
    Jimi5150
    Participant

    Got engine out and measured the valve gaps, sort off.  I can’t measure the gap on all valve as not even the thinnest gauge will go in, which will make getting the right shims a pain.  Order a shim tool for the next stage.

    #27565
    Jimi5150
    Participant

    Cheers KK I will most likely need help with a frame in future, as the parts I have are off  76 model I would be preferably be wanting a Kz750 B frame.  No doubt I will need help with other part too.

     

    #27525
    Jimi5150
    Participant

    Well spotted Karl, they are definitely Yamaha wheels and look like XS wheels, I might sell them at a letter date, someone hand painted them white and they look a mess but the white paint is crumbling and I may be able crumble the paint off to the original Yamaha black.

    #27522
    Jimi5150
    Participant

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)