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Go on, I’ll fall for it. What is kick shaft guide 13070-005.
On the running bike I have removed the cover plate with the oil seal, behind that there is the spring and an alloy spacer which slides over the shaft with a slot the entire length which allows it to pass the end of the spring which locates in the shaft. I also have this spacer in nylon, off one of the other engines.
When I mocked this up on a spare gearbox, with the crankcase covers loosely bolted together and a cover plate in place the kick start returned as it should.
On the plus side I am understanding the mechanics a bit better. Not sure if everyone else knows, or cares, how the kick start works. I presumed some form of centrifugal action like the electric starter, but no. It’s a really basic toothed dog with a lug projecting from it. When the kick start moves away from the rest position the dogs mesh with the shaft and turn the engine over. When the kick start returns to the rest position, the lug hits a small steel blade, bolted to the upper crankcase which moves the dogs against a light spring, and out of mesh. Simples.
I don’t have the photos with me at work but how do I upload photos.
Cleaned up and refitted the brake.
Had another look at the kickstart. Each time I fitted the spring and pushed the spacer in, it would stay until I moved the kickstart and it would jump out about 4mm, enough to bind on the cover plate.
I checked the cover plate and found it worn around 50% of the diameter. I checked another cover plate and it had no wear but had a clearance of 30 thou between the inner seal and the plate face. The worn one only had 15 thou at the highest point. Put the other cover plate on but no difference.
I used a small pick to drag the inner spring coils outwards and that stopped the spacer from jumping but the kickstart still sticks down. It’s okay until you fit the cover then sticks. There is a lot of play on the shaft before the cover is fitted but it only has one bearing, so I suppose it will have.
Back to work tomorrow so it’s all boxed up again for a couple of weeks.Looks like I’ll just have to tie string to it.
Tried to upload photos but didn’t manage.
Bike’s looking good, TJ. Sorry I never read your earlier post, I’ve not been doing much, except riding the new bike and not been on the new site really. Spoke to Andy a few times and he mentioned your projects. By all means hang on to the parts for as long as you need them, I don’t have much planned for the time being.
Yesterday was glorious, today it’s raining, so managed to compress the pictures.
A few niggles to sort out. Back brake is poor, even for a twin. Might help if the exhaust didn’t prevent full travel. Kick start doesn’t return, the guy said he’d checked it and the spring looked okay, not sure what else it would be.Still struggling to get the bike to run. Suspected the start enrichment might not be working. So carbs off again, stripped down and blown through. I looked at a few diagrams of BS34 carbs and none were like mine, they have more varieties than Heinz.
Some have a plug in the bottom of the pilot jet and some have an air screw in the bellmouth.
With the bowl off, I blew WD40 through the enrichment tube and it came out of the enrichment port, OK. I then did it to the main jet and it came out of the needle jet, when I blocked off the jet it came out of the right hand air hole in the bellmouth, OK. I blew it into the pilot jet and it came out of the mixture screw hole and the left hand air vent in the bellmouth, OK.
So not really sure where my problem lies. All the O rings and the bellows on the chokes are in poor condition.That looks amazing. Lots to get in the space. I know the left hand exhaust is really close to the frame on my bike, don’t know if it will make it easier or harder. Good luck.
I have the damaged barrels as well. Fortunately or unfortunately, depending on your view my cylinder head looks ok.
Not sure where you are, could send by courier or how quick you want them, I’m heading down south towards the end of March, A1M then south Suffolk. I am away at work until 10th of this month. If you drop me your number I can give you a call.The mixture screws are visible so the plugs must have been removed already, I suspect someone has already tampered. Or, judging by the rest of the bike, my carbs may not always have had those needles.
When I was sorting out some of the other ‘SPARES’ I found one of the clutch baskets has only 4 posts, the other has snapped off flush. How do you do that?Hi Guys,
Didn’t get much more done before I had to go back to work. Our internet connection out here in the North Sea is pretty poor.
I did strip the carbs again. Last time I couldn’t get the pilots out so I soaked them in WD40 for 3 days and finally got them out. They appear to be blocked but I had nothing fine and stiff enough to try and clear them. They were quite badly damaged where the screwdriver slot is. I haven’t taken out the needle jet or the mixture screw yet. I did try cleaning the pilots to find the size but it’s difficult to tell. I tried searching for jets for these carbs but didn’t have much success. Does anyone know where to get overhaul kits for these carbs. I’m wanting gaskets, jets, float needle valve. I did notice on Michael’s link that his original needle has multiple grooves, mine only have one choice of needle height.Cheers,
Kenny
Sounded good and I thought I might get to meet some of you guys, but I’m at work. I only work 2 on 3 off and still get to miss everything.
Carbs are the ones that came with my bike. Choke is hidden behind the fuel tap. Stripped them and found solid blockage in the tee piece to the left carb. Cleaned them and rebuilt but still won’t start, right hand carb flooding. Stripped them again and found petrol above the diaphragm. Not too sure how these carbs work and where the fuel and air passages go, so don’t know how it got up there.The diaphragms aren’t torn.
A little bit of light relief, I cleaned up the brakes on the little Honda.
