@tango
Active 6 years, 3 months agoForum Replies Created
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Posts
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Cheers Guys.
At least I know at a push I can fit a CSR / LTD clutch cable now! May be a bit long but it would get me home!
I am Now on the Final Leg! Parts are starting to go back on the bike now!
One thing I wasn’t happy about fitting K&Ns was the lack of protection from the elements the battery & the electrics had. Loosing the Air box left things just a little to open for me.
So I decided to modify an old air box to see what I could come up with to get some of that protection back?
OK Onward and upward…Getting closer to this thing being near to ready! 😀
I’m looking for an oil leak now coming from the right hand engine case? KK said most likely the block where the wires come through as its a common place for the 750 Twins to leak from.
But I’m guessing that No Gasket wouldn’t help much either!…Opps 😳
While I have got the clutch cable case off, I will swap the clutch cable over, the one I fitted seams to long,We think it is one of the CSR? But as I have a much shorter one,that must be the one for mine.
As I had to have the throttle cables off to swap the carbs, I have fitted a pair of Z1 New switch gears while I was at it!This now has completed the full new wiring system! They have a couple of extra wires? But I have all functions,so I’m not sure what they do..or did on the Z1 But it appears I don’t need them?
OK I have managed to get the GPZ500s
Carb conversion on, I have used CSR 34mm mounting rubbers, these are the same hole spacing as the original B1 rubbers, and the same length.( No Spacer needed)
All I have to do now is some kind of choke conversion? as the GPZ carbs are a Cable pull choke, not a leaver on the side like the original B1 carbs.
Not been on for a few days I’m off work today, So i’m taking the carbs off to get ready for fitting the GPZ500s carbs.
Before I took the carbs off I thought Id do a quick compression test, I only had a push in type, And I did it with a cold engine, ( I know it should be warmed up! But I just wondered?)
I took both plugs out,and put full Throttle on? Don’t know why full throttle but that’s what it said in the manual.
I got 120psi on both cylinders.
So i’m hoping this should go up when the engine is warm?Normal psi is 156 Service limit is 114 or 14psi difference between cylinders.
I did learn that Not Only is there a correct way for the Lower Axle clamps to fit to the bike!
(Arrows to the front!)
I also learnt that there was a correct way to tighten the nuts up!
1st the front nuts finger tight until there is NO! gap and then the rears finger tight this should leave a small gap at the rear Only!
Then torq down to correct tension!
:pint:
Well small Victory is mine!
The Wheel is back on and built up.
The studs were taken from a kit when I went to pay for them! Many thanks to Zpower for that. It meant that as I had finished work early I could get the job finished today! Instead of weekend
Cheers mate, I did cheat a little, I ordered them before I got the old ones out! I did it as I left work! 😕 (Well you said they would come out!)
I think they were aboutYep Thanks guys.
I borrowed a tool just like the 1st one off a friend. And with a bit of local heat before attempting to remove the studs, They came free with a little care! :pint:
I have even ordered the new ones from the local Kawasaki Supplier with new Nuts to match. 😀 Due in on Thursday, So as long as I can get back from work I can have it sorted over the weekend.
