Marko’s Z 750 S1

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  • #9537
    Kaptainkwak
    Keymaster

    A very nice piece of ingenuity Marko. Michael is right. Look for those signs of wear and replace as soon as you can. As another tip you can use the inside brass piece of an electrical strip connector as a temporary nipple.

    Also it is very easy to change gear on the twins without a clutch. Just apply a reasonable amount of pressure to the gear change (up or down depending which change you want) and when the revs are right she will effortlessly and cleanly change gear. I’ve been doing this for years and have found no issues with the engine or gearbox. The only difficulty is setting off. you need to get the bike free wheeling as fast as you can before you can get it in 1st gear.
    You can set off by putting the bike in gear and pressing the starter button but this is a lot trickier and you do need a very good working starter system and it can cause damaged to the starter motor and starter.
    It is worth practicing this when you have a working clutch then if you ever need to use this method you have already mastered it.

    #9657
    Marko
    Participant

    Thanks guys for great tips (as usual) 🙂

    I will replace it with a shorter one, and beacause I lost all hope of finding any parts for Twin here, I wonder if this would be a correct replacement cable? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kawasaki-K-Z-750-B4-Twin-1979-Clutch-cable-/180822645405?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item2a19de9a9d

    Cheers,
    Marko

    #9592
    Michael
    Participant

    Hi Marko,

    that is a complete wrong cable !!!

    Michael

    #9658
    Marko
    Participant
    #9593
    Michael
    Participant

    Hi Marko,

    much better now 🙂

    This cable will fit your bike but it is still the long version for LTD and the high steering bar.

    You may run it with a long curve over the headlight to right hand side and then close to the steering bearing / head stock down it’s normal way at left hand “down frame tube”(?) using the stock frame clamps or just cable ties.

    The “Kawaschrauber” is a good guy, I have bought several parts from him 🙂

    Maybe you can find the clutch cable for a B-model somewhere ?
    You may run that with a nice bend downwards on left hand side only, placing it close to head stock and then down the standard way.

    Should fit your bike and the lower steering bar better 🙂

    Cheers, Michael

    #9594
    Michael
    Participant

    That previous mentioned “wrong” clutch cable doesn’t even match the description made in the article description !

    So it is not your fault 🙂
    The seller has no idea about what he is selling there 🙁

    I would “blacklist” that guy, but ebay doesn’t offer that functionality !

    Cheers, Michael

    #9659
    Marko
    Participant

    I found the clutch cable for a B-model at the same seller (http://www.ebay.de/itm/Kupplungszug-Kawasaki-Z750-Twin-Typ-KZ750B-2-Zyl-Bj-1975-1978-neu-new-/151065234434?pt=DE_Motorradteile&hash=item232c308c02), but it doesn’t have a spring around the cable at the bottom end. Does that matter in any way?

    Cheers,
    Marko

    #9538
    Kaptainkwak
    Keymaster

    Well spotted and good advice Michael. That seller is less than 20km from me. I use him occasionally. I will get in touch.

    Marko
    The spring does not come with the cable. There should be one on yours that you can re use. If it is faulty or missing let us know. Also bear in mind we are in the UK. I can get things from here for you and post on if it helps.

    Cheers

    KK

    #9660
    Marko
    Participant

    The spring is on the old cable and it seems to be in good condition, so I will use it, but thanks for the offer!

    Cheers,
    Marko

    #9536
    Kaptainkwak
    Keymaster

    🙁 Poor George 🙁

    #9637
    Marko
    Participant

    A was worried for a moment that something happened to my bike! But you are right, it is a sad story and a powerful reminder for us all.

    On a side note, I really enjoy documentaries with Sir David Attenborough, BBC documentaries with him were my favorite in childhood and still are.

    And back to the “steel George”: the clutch cable is replaced, but I haven’t had the time to test it yet, because of rainy weather here.

    Cheers,
    Marko

    #9601
    Michael
    Participant

    Hi Marko,

    the chain is a 530 type.
    Sometimes also called DID50, but that is typically a very simple, old style chain.
    Todays there are O-ring, X-ring or even W-ring chains in use.
    For our Twins an O- or X-ring would be fine.
    Chain must have 106 links.
    Rear sprocket has 38 teeth.
    Front sprocket has stock 16 teeth, but a lot of guys changed that to 17 teeth.
    The front sprocket of a Yamaha SR500 would fit perfectly and is a cheap trick ! 😉
    That will still fit with the 106-links-chain.

    The final chain link is a special thing !
    Often rivet locks (german: Nietschloss) are offered, but they need an expensive special tool to get riveted as they should be.
    I don’t use them at all!

    Best solution is to buy a chain that is “endless”, means the ends are factory coupled and no lock is needed.
    To mount them, the swing arm needs to be taken off the bike.
    Rear wheel must be removed at all to replace rear sprocket, so the “heavy” part of swing arm removal is already done 🙂

    Removing the swing arm is more work, but allows to check, clean and grease swing arm bearings and axle.
    BTW the swing arm and the rear side of the motor and that area of the frame can be cleaned as well.
    I bet it is time to do that !

    Other kind of lock is a “Clip”-lock. That is old style, has some disadvantages (neglectable with our Twins) and the advantage that no special tool is required to fix / fasten it as it should be.

    I typically use a special kind of lock, a “screwed” lock. It is made from ENUMA and I use their matching chains as well.
    Patented, expensive (approx 12,- Euros) and superb.
    It has two long bolts with a thread. All other parts of the link (o-rings, latch) can be placed in position and the nuts are used to press the latch onto the bolts until it is firmly seated in final position.
    When finished, remove the nuts and simply break off the threads. That’s it, done 🙂

    OK, here the short summary:
    16-38, alternative 17-38 sprockets,
    chain 530, O- or X-ring, 106 links,
    endless or with matching lock.

    Cheers, Michael

    #9600
    Marko
    Participant

    Hi guys,

    again, I need an advice from you!

    The chain needs to be replaced, could you help me find the right one? I am afraid I might buy wrong one, so I would appreciate if you could give me the right type.

    Thanks,
    Marko

    #9661
    Marko
    Participant

    Michael, thank you for very detailed description. I will first see what is available in Slovenia nad hopefully manage to replace the chain by myself.

    Cheers,
    Marko

    #9662
    Marko
    Participant

    Hi,

    the chain and also rear sprocket is replaced. Two weeks ago I went for a nice ride to Cres island, here are a couple of (phone) pics.

    Cheers,
    Marko

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