Bevan

Forum Replies Created

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 18 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #27982
    Bevan
    Participant

    Kaptainkwak

    Thanks for this. Yes it took over a year to get the exhaust pipes re-chromed after extensive surgery on them. It is a lovely bike to ride and have enjoyed its undemanding pace. My fuel leak is even when on the centre stand so tap leaks when off and float valves aren’t stopping this despite being brand new OEM. I also put OEM float gaskets in (can get on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/264461670193) but that hasn’t fixed the problem. It is very slight so I am just living with it for now.

    #27971
    Bevan
    Participant

    Sorry, should have also mentioned that I have set the float levels as per service manual, checked and then rechecked. Also balanced carbs.

    #27337
    Bevan
    Participant

    Yes that’s the reference I used. It can get a bit annal, the chapter on date codes that appear on the actual parts goes on for pages. Must confess that I photographed every dated part during my Z1 resto as there are only a few parts on that bike that are not original/genuine OEM so hopefully it will help the kids make a fortune when they come to sell it, after I croak! Cheers

    #27331
    Bevan
    Participant

    KK, all good, will go with OEM’s. I think the same bushes were used on other Kawasaki road bikes of the time, particularly the triple two strokes. I think cast iron was used because it is probably cheaper than brass and was a common bearing material as it can be used with a hardened steel shaft due to the coefficient of friction being relatively low, cast iron having 2 to 4% carbon. The cast iron glazes over therefore wear becomes negligible. However it is prone to rusting and hence the drama getting them out if stuck to the hardened steel sleeve.

    I had interpreted the label on my NOS bush as having the ‘Big K’ logo and lower case company name, as being a 1980’s style used from 1980 to 1989 – a 1979 label would not have had the logo and KAWASAKI would have been in upper case (type 3 in John Brookes book). Cheers

    #27322
    Bevan
    Participant

    KK, the first NOS bush has arrived and debunks my theory about the material changing in the first year of manfacture. It came wrapped in oily plastic (as in the photo) and then in its own sealed bag with the label. From the type style on the label and the (9J) bottom left hand side, we can determine that this part was made in October 1989, and it ain’t brass. Are the brass ones you have OEM or aftermarket? Tracking this stuff down is fun and detracts from the bottomless pit we keep throwing our money in to to get these old girls ship shape again.

    #27314
    Bevan
    Participant

    You got me thinking, as I had expected brass, or even just steel. Went and had a closer look and remembering my high school metal work classes, put it to the grinding wheel – fine short sparks that ‘exploded’ in little bursts after leaving the wheel – pretty sure that’s indicative of cast iron. Have attached photo of granular texture at fracture and grind marks. Now my B1 has a fairly early chasis number, KZ750B000648. I know with my 1973 Z1 several parts were modified or changed during the first year of production, especially in the early stages of the production run. Sometimes Kawasaki also changed the part number when this happened, sometimes not. Maybe they started using cast iron bushes (high carbon content should resist seizing but obviously didn’t) then changed to brass and possibly left the part number unchanged? I managed to get one NOS bush from my local supplier, Plenter NZ, another one from Ebay, so it will be interesting to see what turns up, iron, brass or one of each. Also found a NOS sleeve on Ebay so snapped that up as well. Cheers

    #27300
    Bevan
    Participant

    Finally got this sorted, what a mission. Understanding the actual construction of the swing arm bearings obviously helped. I tried driving the inner steel sleeve in one direction but cast bush at that end just moved with the sleeve after shearing off the bush flange and threatened to disappear in to the swing arm. Then tried driving the sleeve from the other side, that bush flange also broke but the bush stayed put as sleeve and other bush finally emerged from the swing arm. This took some serious hammering! The binding between sleeve and bushes is surprising as it looks like the sleeve is steel and the bushes look like cast iron. Maybe water has got in at some stage as I had had to drive the swing arm bolt (rusty and white corrosion) out to initially remove the swing arm.  WARNING, keep those swing arm bushes (needle bearings from ’78 I think) greased!

    #27295
    Bevan
    Participant

    I have re-read the Service Manual umpteen times and maybe I have misunderstood the construction. Manual says, “pull out the swing arm sleeve” before removing the bushes. Does the “sleeve” accupy the full width of the swing arm, sitting inside the bushes at each end? If this is the case then my “sleeve” is seized in the bushes as it doesn’t want to come out. How do I get the sleeve out?

    #27294
    Bevan
    Participant

    No haven’t tried heating the swing arm so will try that. Battery acid has dribbled all over the swing arm so I have to do some repainting anyway. Will also try the hacksaw cuts. The residual problem is getting some ‘edge’ on the inner end of the bush in order to drive them out. On my Z1 the central collar or sleeve was easily pushed off centre to expose enough of the bush end to get a bar against and drive out the bushes. Will keep pottering.

    #27205
    Bevan
    Participant

    Jon, yours looks pretty tame compared to what I found on stripping my B1. I am stripping it back to the cases and replacing every O ring and gasket. I have heard that oil can leak from the two small plugs, which have O rings on each end, and fit in those holes between the outside two cylinder head bolts. Cheers Bevan

    #26990
    Bevan
    Participant

    Hi, Thought I had posted these photos somewhere else but can’t find them so posting here. KZ750B1 import from USA with low miles but needs a bit of work to clean her up and make her a reliable rider. Cheers Bevan

    #26892
    Bevan
    Participant

    KK, gotcha on the Add Media, I think it has worked. I have sourced from Z-power before but now tend to use Partzilla out of the USA as freight from UK/Europe to NZ seems to take months at the moment. Will start working my way through the check list on the KZ and see what else I’m likely to need. Cheers Bevan

    #26894
    Bevan
    Participant

    KK, I have worked my way from fuel tank (in surprisingly good condition inside but will clean and seal anyway), petcock (need O ring and packing washer), to carbs and found needle settings different for each carb and neither near standard (no.4 groove). Slotted heads of the main jets and pilot jets are a bit mangled so looking to replace these – do you have the Mikuni part numbers for these and know best place for me to get genuine replacements? They are particularly small diameter jets which is probably why the slotted heads have been mangled. Hope you have a great Christmas break, Cheers Bevan.

    #26858
    Bevan
    Participant

    KK, she has arrived and looks pretty original. Even the clutch and brake lever have the crappy old laquer still on that has aged to yellow. Needs a little TLC and a good once over but hopefully have her on the road soon. Do need some consumables but can’t get the “Shop” drop down to work for me. Will try to work out how to add photos. Would like to see a photo of the luggage rack you have – if you could email me a photo and what you would like to get for it, that would be great thanks.

    I have the Kawasaki Heavy Industries Ltd’s, “Kawasaki Model Recognition 1963-1981” second revision Jan 6 1982 and fourth edition Jun 17 1993, which shows model profiles and specs for every model by year. It doesn’t differentiate for each market however. Photo of the 1976 B1 has short rear guard and no seat strap, ditto for 1977 B2. The 1978 B3 photo has longer rear guard and seat strap, the 1979 B4 photo reverts back to short rear guard and no seat strap. I am pretty sure that most of Kawasaki’s 70’s road bikes had short guards and no seat strap for the USA market but longer rear guards and seat straps for UK/Europe. Cheers Bevan

    #26856
    Bevan
    Participant

    Kaptainkwak, thanks for that, definitely interested in a stainless grab rail when they are available. Pretty sure the USA B1 didn’t have a seat strap – can’t see one in the parts catalogue. My ’73 Z1 is also USA model with similar short rear guard and no seat strap. I think I saw a thread (can’t find it again, darn) about the grab rails and someone had a luggage rack to fit the 750B – could be interested in that. Cheers Bevan

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 18 total)