[Jon]

Ah yes i get it now..

When removing my ones i grabbed a long piece of 15mm copper tubed, squeezed it oval and it was just right to hold the top of the piston head.

Now that it’s dis-assemebled im’ thinking i might modify the piston heads to fit into a normal socket by pushing the socket onto the pistons you can see the tight spot and just dremel them away- i can’t see that it’d cause any problems.

[Jon]

Kaptain – can you explain the two locked nuts method? i can’t think what you mean?

[Jon]

Nice bike -good luck,,,

[Jon]

Nice – put some pics up when you can…

 

Welcome

[Jon]

All bits and pieces being powdercoated….

The powdercoaters found both calipers had cracks (not on the oil pressure side) – so these are being welded first.

I found a great engine degreaser ‘Engine Klenz’ this is one of those lemon smelling ones and it seems to work better that jizer and more friendly on the hands / nose. (£10 for 5ltrs).

Ordered some flexoid so that i can make gaskets for the next 20 years.

Looking at the various sources for bearings, brake repair kits, chain, sprockets, etc and the other bits i need, it’d roughly £200 quid worth of bits from Z power required (so far) what sort of discount can KK get ?

[Jon]

I think i’ve found the answer on csml website (one out each side )

[Jon]

Does each bearing come out each side then not both out the same side?

 

[Jon]

Cheers KK

I’ll leave it then…

 

I got the headstock bearing cups out with a dremel slitting disc – pretty easy afterall,.

I’m having a right job trying to get my wheel bearings out. The Maintenance manual doesn’t give much away on best method..

I’ve removed the circlips and trying to take them out towards that circlip on the understanding that the non circlip side the bearing sits against that shoulder.

 

I’ll work out a shopping list soon….

Got a quote all bits and pieces (yokes, brackets, headlamp housing, etc, etc plus frame and wheels £250 powder coated – i thought that was reasonable.

• This reply was modified 3 years, 2 months ago by Jon.

[Jon]

Ok so with some dremelling and a mini slotting disc to slot the bearing cups it gave enough relief to ease the bearing cups out with a screwdriver and hammer.

All good……

[Jon]

I’ll have a little play tomorrow see what i can do.

Yeah i think i’ll create some dremel notches beneath bearing seat – mind you i’ll be dead by the time they  need doing again – so might not both lol.

 

[Jon]

blow lamp and some tapping with a lump hammer – this tapper tole me it was nice a loose a the top but the bottom was where it sounded solid. So concentrated at the bottom and some more heat and it’s now off. There were just a couple of small rust spots. I’ll just make sure i pack some grease in there on the rebuild.

[Jon]

Hi

Bit of forward planning for me. The tyre especially on the rear looks a bit skinny by modern standards.

Any recommendations for the fattest tyres i can fit to my B2 (Mag wheels)?

[Jon]

Cheers KK.

 

The left one was fine, i’ll see how it goes.

 

 

[Jon]

Hi  I took the yoke off the top to see if i could get some penetrating oil down inside. But it didnt help. I’ll try a blow lamp next – maybe better than the attempt i did with a heat gun

[Jon]

It’s the upper fork cover which had the headlight lug.

Yoke clamps loose but it won’t twist off.

I’ll have to think how I can submerged it in oil to loosen the rust gripping it inside or just slice it

 

[Author]

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