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Hi Tango,
maybe miswired ?
That description doesn’t make any sense.
Can say that without a look into a wiring diagram.
Simply doesn’t make sense !Neutral indicator switch and alternator coil connector are very close to each other !
Let’s see 🙂
Cheers, Michael
The Neutral light wire (red) and Oil pressure wire (grey) do NOT hook into the charging circuit. They just follow the charging circuit wires for a short spell and the Brown and Green wires share a 4 pin plug but are not connected to each other.
Arr Sorry getting the wrong end of the stick?
Tomorrow I’m going to swap the starter motor over with a fully Working unit! So that shouldn’t take to long and then I will check the block connectors to make sure they are clean?When I first got my bike the starter was turning but the engine wasn’t. That turned out to be the main outer gear turning inside the starter when it should have been fixed solid. I packed mine out so it was clamped tighter when the two ends of the starter were bolted up tight. It’s still working..
Sounds like you have some serious issues there. It may be worth bearing in mind that the alternator on the twin needs a voltage fed in to get a voltage out (inner coil is an exciter coil which has a voltage varied by the regulator to maintain the voltage of the output at a set rate) if the battery voltage was low then the charge rate would be low, although my bike has charged from a battery which only just ran the neutral light 🙂
Michael is correct in saying the 3 outputs from the alternator (yellow wires) can go in any order as they are just feeding through a bridge rectifier to be turned into one direct current voltage into the regulator.
Ok I have swapped the Starter motor for a spare that Andy had, and that seems to be ok now (If I bypass the Starter Button and put a positive straight to the Starter via a jump lead)
I still have a wiring issue with the starter circuit?
But after checking and cleaning all the bits I could under the Generator cover I have built it back up.
I did put Medium Lock Tight on the bolt that holds the flywheel on and tightens it up as much as I could!
And I put the side cover back on using a New gasket bought from Zpower just down the road from me. (Note in the photo it has the small square block bit missing now! It’s a superseded type)
I am now looking at my wiring
I think I have an earth problem somewhere?
I have checked the Starter Button with the buzzer on my multimeter and it buzzes on each press!
I have got power to the switch gear via the 4pin connector Brown in from the loom and up to the switch gear via a white cable!I have also noticed that my rectifier on the B1 Wiring diagram shows the Negative battery terminal off the battery to the frame and then the black off the Rectifier going to the Negative on the battery via the Black & Yellow lead which also links in turn to the frame!
I think I have a problem with this Black earth some how?Hi Tango,
a white or white/red cable is typical for unfused PLUS DC.
That is/are the main power cables and of course be connected to PLUS of the battery. Original PLUS cable routes from battery to starter solenoid and has a “Y”-connector to white cable.No PDFs allowed for upload.
Only picture file formats (jpg, gif,..)Cheers, Michael
Looks like we have cracked it. The black wire from the harness that supplies a +ve live to the starter solenoid when the button is pressed appears to have a fault. We have temporarily by passed this wire with a working result. Tango is going to do this properly and hopefully the starter circuit will then be fixed and working properly. It was totally unexpected as the harness is NOS so we trusted it to be OK.
Thanks for you Wiring Diagram reading skills last night Andy. I stayed up a bit past bed time for me on earlys, but Hey we got there Even with me driving the multimeter & you on the phone! LoL
But I made it into work Early worrying that I’d be late!? What’s that all about?
So once I’ve routed a new black wire, lets hope we can sort my charging issue?
Just a quick ask for you Gurus out there.
A B1 and B2 both have 3 Phase electrics …… and the B3-4 LTD & CSR all 2 Phase electrics
The 2 phase electrics had a Combined Regulator and Rectifier the finned type that’s more common these days.
Now Kawasaki never made a specific component line Rectifiers
So my Question is Can I fit a combined unit off another bike as long as it has 3 Phase electrics?
Such as the Honda CB250N/400N Superdream?
See Link Below
[youtube=3 Phase CB250N Regulator/Rectifier,350]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Regulator-Rectifier-Honda-CB-250N-CB400N-Superdream-/380838614104?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item58abc01458[/youtube]
3 Phase Reg/Rec
I would say no. Your regulator has 3 wires in total and your rectifier has 5 wires. That is 8 in total where as this unit only has 6. I may be wrong but do not think so
just checked my old honda trainings documentation.
Can’t find information about the CB250/400Ns but they were low priced models. Not sure if they had this type of alternator ?
same type of alternator as we have it with the b1/b2, is used at honda cbx650e and cbx750f (both four cylinders).
go and check their regulator/rectifier unitsWill post a schematic of their charging circuit with next post.
Michael
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