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Ok, found one that may fit a B1 / B2.
It is of a Honda CBR1000F (SC21)
Late 80s / early 90s models.
Has 8 cables and is very clear to understand.
No idea if this will work but parameters for battery charging, float voltage, etc. should be the same, in the end it is the same battery in both models !
I would go for this one instead of the CB250/400 ones.Cheers, Michael
Found several used ones at ebay Germany from approx 40,- to 60.- Euros plus PP.
Have a look at this offer for a new one for 80,- Euros plus PP:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/REGLER-GLEICHRICHTER-HONDA-CB750-SC-CBX750F-F2-CBR1000-F-Regulator-Rectifier-/230746845138?pt=DE_Motorradteile&hash=item35b9956fd2#ht_1899wt_1192
fits following models:Modell
Bj. Code
Fahrgestell-Nr.
Baujahr
LeistungHonda CBX 750 F
E
RC17
1984- 1985
91 PS, 67 kwHonda CBX 750 F
G
RC17
1986
91 PS, 67 kwHonda CBR 1000 F
H
SC21
1987
100 PS, 74 kwHonda CBR 1000 F
J
SC21
1988
100 PS, 74 kwalso for HONDA CB750 SC Nighthawk Bj. ´83-84 !!!
Be aware there are at least two different versions out there !!!
(Same #OOPS# as with my Honda VFR750F)An older version that has no cooling fins on it (which leads to overheating) and no cables coming out of it. A special connector must be used. Don’t go for that !
A newer version with fins and cables attached available. Go for that version !!!
… ah, sorry, if you decide to go that way at all 🙂
Still no idea and no warranty that this will work (correctly) !
Cheers, Michael
Im hoping not to go that way Michael.
It was just a question I wondered about?And it could be handy to know if you have yours go?
The thing to remember here regards total number of wires is that the combined regulator / rectifier will have only 3 wires in from the alternator and 3 out (1 to battery, and two going to the exciter coil in the alternator to regulate the output.) whereas the seperate items will have 3 into the rectifier and one out, and one into the regulator (from the rectifier) and 3 out (battery and two to the exciter coil). The regulator varies the voltage to the exciter coil to change the voltage / current from the 3 output coils of the alternator.
What you have to be careful of when mixing and matching is the battery current (which Michael had considered) and also the resistance of the exciter coil as it will affect the regulator which may not be able to supply enough current to the exciter to get the voltage flowing.
Hi Dougyt,
good point !
I was just thinking about the output of the R/R to the battery.I am not used to have an alternator with an exiter coil !
Do you think it is worth to have a look at Hondas resistance data of the coils for the CBR1000F and to compare it with the B1/B2 data ?The CBR1000Fs alternator will be more powerful than the B1/B2 ones. Would that be positive or negative for use with a Twin ? Not sure about that 🙁
Cheers, Michael
I would guess that they will be pretty similar on the exciter side of things and all that may change would be more windings in the outputs. To add more to the exciter coils would mean heavier duty internals to feed it as resistance will change, so as they would all be using similar calculations for the electronics (and probably suppliers) they would most likely work.
Ok I have not been able to do much over the weekend as I was working Saturday morning, and it was My wife’s Birthday and my eldest sons 18th on Sunday (Yes Both on the same day) Ha Ha what were the chances of her having her 1st born on her birthday!
Anyway as you can imagine I was tied up all Sunday, I had a day off work today but I had to take her shopping!
But Anyway Enough of the excuses! I did get an hour in the garage when I got back. I tested the battery after it sitting for 2 or 3 days & it was reading 12.7 volts.
I did test my starter button I found that the Brown out of the main loom is ignition live so that supplies power when I turn the ignition on. there is a yellow and red wire that then turns live and goes to the Coil. The black wire to the starter solenoid turns live when I press the button in.
(This is the wire in the main loom I need to bridge)
But I also found that when the starter button was Not! pressed the black wire had 0.01 volt coming down it!
I don’t know if this would cause any problems?
But I seem to have sorted that by stripping the whole switch gear down! I think the spring that pushes the starter button back out, was slightly touching the yellow and red wire?
I’ve put it all back together and it seems fine now?
So I’m back to having to bridge the Black wire at weekend, and hopefully fixing my electric start! And then building everything back up so I can then look at this charging problem!Wiring diagram but a bit bigger!
Nope…it is too big to upload any bigger.
Ill Try This Photo of the switch gear wiring, so its a little easier to see the part I’m dealing with.
Hi Tango,
using a standard multimeter, a measurement of 0.01V is nothing !
Grab one strip with one hand and grip the other strip with the other hand, what is the reading of that measurement ?
Do you really think you expose that voltage ?
Forget it, it means nothing !Cheers, Michael
Thanks Michael
As I know nothing about electrics That is a reassurance to know you wouldn’t worry about it! 🙂
But I hope I’ve sorted it anyway.
Well I managed to get back from work today and get a couple of hours in on the bike.
I’m Very Glad to be able to Post This!! 😀 😀
[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=or8IjtocC2g[/youtube]
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