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Hi Karl
I did look for your post but we know now why I couldn’t find it ha ha. No worries I have done worse than that, usually on my mobile.
I have gone through your list and can so far supply most of what you asked for, the only exception being the full gasket set as I have described what I can supply including the seals you requested.. I have added an oil filter and oil filter O ring plus the 2 seals in the sprocket housing for the gear selector shaft.
Most parts I have here but some I will need to order in.
I will send you a PM with the details
Cheers
KK
Afternoon kaptain!
Looking at my tensioner, looks like a better cap would be good idea, this one will leak, can you add one to the order, if not already included,
also do you have any serviceable cam chain tensioner guides? The front one on mine looks little worn and couple small bits missing mainly on the outer edge?Thanks
Karl
That is bad. I also notice it has a copper washer. That should be an O ring. Will add that too.
Yes I will also add a front tensioner and PM you with details again.
Cheers
KK
Evening all (anybody out there?)
Did a bit more today, stripped head the valves look nice and straight just need seats grinding when it and the barrels come back from vapour blasting.
It took a full week of nipping in the garage pouring plusgas down the studs and whacking with a big mallet before the barrels came loose the pry points weren’t much use, I did try bit of heat with a gas torch not thinking about all the plusgas, went bang which may of helped loosen them. Not recommended to be fair.
Attached is picture of the studs before and after a clean.
Is that one of the front middle two? They are open to the elements and always cause problems for removing the barrels. I would seriously look at replacing those 2 at least as that is where the head gasket usually fails.
KK
Morning kk
I wo t be in garage for a week now, back on shift but I have been thinking…. primarily about the primary chain. There is no means of adjustment, whats the procedure for checking for wear? Mine does have a fair bit of slack but there’s no wear marks on the guides. Now would be the time to change it but if its within acceptable limits I can live with a bit of a rattle
Cheers karl
Hi Karl
The details of the primary chain are in the manual. When installed there should be no more than 32mm play. You need to inspect the upper and lower chain guides for wear and function. One of those is spring loaded at that one has been known to fail.
New Primary chains are almost none existent so if yours has gone replacement I could only help with a used one.
KK
Good morning
Primary chain has 25mm measured in middle of top run of chain with top case off. My guides appear to be both solid mounted to cases, no sprung tensioner, top guide has no wear at all, bottom just a little. Think we be ok at that?
Cheers karl
Sorry mate I was thinking of the balancer chain guides. The Hy-vo chains are quite bullet proof in themselves so does sound good for you.
I will get the rest of your parts posted.
KK
Ok thank you, thought it was worth checking while its all in bits. Frames off to powder coaters tomorrow, hopefully get bottom end back together next week, still a lot to do but making progress
Karl
Evening
Parts arrived today thanks kk, got cam chain in and cases together, managed to snap m6 case bolt, long one inside under gearbox, have to come apart again. Not happy!
Had top end vapour blasted and valve seats redone, lapping in was never going to get them right, so some progress made.
No problem Karl it is what this site is all about.
That’s an amazing job so far. It doesn’t look like the same engine. Such a shame about the snapped bolt. Are you going to helicoil it?
KK
Cheers, its coming along.
Got snapped bolt out by welding a bolt to the bit just sticking out of the hole, wound out ok. Cases back together now, will try get sides on tomorrow, have the head to pick up later today also the barrels are at another mates having the fin I broke welded up. Frame should be ready this week too.
Karl
Afternoon,I’ve never seen a bike that has taken so much abuse,and you must have no fear of any project.I would look into a replacement engine as there is a few on the internet for £350,which in the long run would work out cheaper than a total rebuild.If you do source an engine just make sure it turns over ok and check it has compression on both pots.I wish you good luck on your project,and it makes mine a doddle in comparison cheers jj
@Karl – Good news re the broken bolt. That could have been much worse. It really does seem to be picking up the pace now. Im sure you will need shims once back together but I have all sizes here mate.
@jimmyjaz – Absolutely JJ it has had awful abuse. Replacement is the most straightforward way but you can’t be 100% sure you not putting a duff engine back in. To some it’s the best option as not everyone has the sskills and enthusiasm to strip an engine down fully then rebuild it. If you have that then in my opinion do it as you then know what exactly is inside and you can ride with confidence. Also the majority of wearing parts are replaced with new so it should last longer.I have quite a few engines here in different states but I cannot vouch for any of them. If I am to use any in my bikes I will do the same.
KK
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