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I think we’re all worried about it Michael. With Trump on one side and Putin in the other, it’s all getting a little scary out there.
I had a test ride on an F800 and thought it was a great bike, very, very obviously way more power than the Z750, and also lighter steering, so livelier overall really.
I also endured a Z1R for a few unhappy months and thought it was about the worst bike I’d ever ridden, with zero torque, zero (totally ZERO) front brakes and an uncomfortable ride. It was the first and only 4cyl bike I’ve ever owned and it probably gave a particularly bad impression.
Another thought is that you could possibly get a W800 for not much more than €5K from some dealer who just wants to get it off his shelf?
Would those ‘few weeps’ include the tacho cable connector? They all do that mate, it’s a feature, not a fault! Unless you wear shorts on a hot day (I often do), then it can actually be a problem.
OK, somewhere near the seat lock is a single white wire on a connector going into the electric panel. This connector can be a pain in the arse and falls out at the least opportunity. I can’t take a pic as my bikes all wrapped up ready for rain, but it’s easy to check if you know where it is. Anyhow, it’s the main ignition feed and has left me at the side of the road loads of times.
Jesus. How do they justify all this pointless gibberish? Our (car) MoT is bad enough, they check all sorts of things that are completely irrelevant to vehicle safety. I’m sure these paperwork exercises are purely aimed to force unnecessary work onto repair shops to keep them, and the bureaucrats, in business.
Just to second what Mike wrote, and could I also suggest heating the plugs over a gas hob before trying again.
Unfortunately, the coils are also a bit weak, and they do fail, the difficult bit is that it ran, then stopped, suggesting that they’re ok.
It actually needs very little choke once it’s running, and will quickly die if you leave it to idle on full choke (I checked with mine this afternoon). It’s best warmed up by sitting like a lemon holding the throttle open. On mine, from starting from cold ( first time since November, tho it started 2nd kick on 3/4 choke) it took over 5 minutes before I could let go of the throttle.
Were the float bowls lovely, clean and full? 4 secs is about the time it’ll run with the fuel tap off. I’m not saying yours was off, but a blockage maybe?
Also, with a sulky Twin, the kickstart is the only way to go. If you happen to have one of the few remaining working electric starts, keep it that way by using it as little as possible!
Hey Michael, I was just wondering if all the EU arrangements meant that your police would accept our MoT as a TuV? Our MoT is stupidly easy to pass 😉
Hi Joey, nice to meet you. I’ve had at least 3 properly bent sidestands on my bikes. Did you notice it’s quite a heavy bugger? 😀 Honestly, they go banana shaped. Other option is the stop bending, or as above ^^. I might even have one I can dig out for reference. The centrestand stops can also let go, which is a real pain. I think that’s because of kick-starting it on the stand, which might well be more pressure than it’s made for, definitely in my case 🙁 Good luck with it all and hope you like the bike. It’ll never let you down, unless you’re in the middle of nowhere with no signal.
Don’t worry, he won’t forsake us. It may be that he has a life in the real world, but it could just be rumour.
Trial and error. Mostly error. One of the biggest PIA’s going that is. You can either flood it or have it die when you yank the throttle. If it doesn’t do either, leave it alone! I’ve go an MP3 somewhere of mine dying on a high speed run as the fuel just couldn’t keep up. Must dig it out, it’s a cracker.
Anyhow, good luck, you’ll need lots of that.
