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I’ve never really had much trouble with getting a steady idle unless the inlet rubbers are split, but I can’t imagine Micheal running a bike with split rubbers! My current bike starts easily on choke which I turn fully off as soon as I’m on the road. After 2 miles or so it idles comfortably at 800rpm although if I’m gentle it will tick over at 600.
Apart from balancing the carbs properly (they don’t look balanced to me in that pic above) it pays to set the air screw according to the manual, also, of course, the ignition timing!
Also when you reassemble the carbs, rub the CV bores with wire wool then wipe with light oil so the return spring can push the slides down easily, since it’s a lot weaker than the vacuum pulling them up. There might be a ledge of old fuel left that stops them dropping fully as well.
It’s times like this that the forum needs a ‘Like’ button, so I’ll just say well done Kaye, bike looks the dogs gonads and the prize couldn’t have gone to a worthier winner.
Steve (Lonesome)
Because I have no fear of living dangerously I’ve always used 18T on mine, the acceleration is rubbish but the drone as it gathers speed is great, and blatting thru town @ zero rpm always puts a smile on my face. I’ve never had rubbing wire probs, but I can see the concern, I just ignored it.
I made up a little calculator for this sort of thing you might like to play with, except you can’t upload xls files on here, so a couple of pics.
Star stuff mate, properly impressive, I might take a look at those Skye roads myself I hope. Love those little CB175’s, but a plastic maggot??? 😆
I’ve secretly always wanted a trailer for mine, but would need someone more capable to engineer it. I know from experience with my bicycle that 1 wheel good – 2 wheels almost impossible.
Got to admit I like a bit of utter destruction occasionally 😉 Thanks for that, hope the word spreads to those who could benefit from it. Not me, the insides of an engine are more or less a total mystery to me, I think I would struggle to change the clutch plates (I actually need to do this right now, but I’ve been avoiding it) 🙁
Micheal, that’s both the best and the worst photo I’ve seen on here. Please explain why it happened?
No, you need to remove that guard, but otherwise I’ve had no pushrod issues. Thinking back my bike was VERY high geared (80mph / 130kph @ 5000 rpm) so I might have had a 36 tooth rear as well. I have an Excel sheet somewhere which worked it all out. I can be as anal as Kaptain sometimes 😆
17:36 is almost identical to 18:38, which is what I use if possible. It takes the edge off acceleration, but the engine works so well at low revs that it copes fine, plus it makes an even better sound going through narrow streets at low speed. If you’re merciless on the throttle it can cruise at 90 (indicated!) fairly happily, although you might want to get your fillings checked first.
Looks really good Mike, welcome to this select band of others. What’s wrong with it, and can we help?
What Kaptain said, doubled, with bells on. As humans, we’re pretty damn good at controlling things, and way better than some poxy PC. Sometimes my back wheel locks. That’s because I mean it to, and I know how the bikes going to behave. I never lock the front because a) It’s virtually impossible in the dry, and b) because the bloody thing doesn’t work in the rain 🙂
