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Thanks for that Michael. That’s exactly what I’m aiming at. There may be an alternate universe in which I achieve it, but it almost certainly won’t be this one 🙁
There’s a bit of a postscript to this story. Since I put the shocks on the bike has become almost uncontrollable, with a really nervous front end and the back end kicking and slipping. Never known anything like it. It’s bound to be something I’ve done, so I’ll investigate and get back.
There’s only one proper version of this, and it’s not by ACDC
Quote:That is very very nice,I drempt of those instead of girls when I was at school !!Both good to ride, make an irritating noise and let you down at random times for no reason.
FYI the engine weighs about 75kg. In ye olde English that’s 12 stone. I happened to have some scales in my garage. Happy humping. For some reason it always seemed easier to get in than out, maybe because when it goes in the idea is to get something to support it, but on the way out the first thing liable to support it is your toe.
It’s been while, but I don’t remember ever having to take a cover off to get the engine out. Just tip the bike on the floor to the right, grab the frame and wriggle and shout at it. HTH.
Don’t suppose there’s a before pic is there? You could morph it into your shiny after version. I’m impressed with the tank – I did mine once and all that boring sanding and spraying was undone by the first coat of lacquer. I’ll get it done professionally some day. Probably the day after the electric start works flawlessly (or at all!).
Totally excellent old chaps. Inspired me to fish out this link. I think Sir will appreciate.
I also got some engine bars, but they were missing half the fittings, and parts were so rusty they’d actually make it worse. Have you got any experience of seat recovering, is it the sort of thing a beginner with no patience could do?
Actually I’m quite pleased with her now, but really need to find a way to stop it grounding when I want to play with the traffic on roundabouts.
Not sure if you’re talking about readings when it’s running or stopped. You can’t really take resistance readings across windings etc because the resistance is so low that everything looks like a short circuit to a multimeter. I’m not really sure about the regulator wiring but across the rectifier section you should be looking at about 1.4V between any 2 wires. I think the whole thing is one package tho, so a multimeter will be useless.
When it’s running all you can really hope for is 14.4V across a charged battery at 2000rpm or so. Above 14.8 and you’ll fry the battery so you’ll need a new regulator. Less than 13.2V on even a flat battery and the fault could be anywhere in the system, but is much more likely to be the wiring. I’ll see if I can get some readings off of mine later, but since it’s running at 15.3V at the moment it might not be a good guide.
Oh, it might be a good idea to check the -ve line resistance between the battery and wherever you connect the black multimeter lead. Nothing screws up vehicle electrics like a dodgy earth.
